RESTAURANT REVIEW:
Stardust Café: A Real Find in Town of Fine Dining
by Stephen N. Reed
Lewisburg, WV (Special to HNN)-- While in Lewisburg this weekend for a great play at the Greenbrier Valley Theater -- the only year-round playhouse in the Mountain State -- I had a little time before the production to grab a quick bite. Lewisburg has so many excellent restaurants and cafes, that at first I was at a loss as to where to go.
Then I saw a well-lit place just across the street and found my way into the Stardust Cafe, a narrow but deep cafe that had both a bar area and about eight to ten tables. Behind the bar was where most of the action was going on, as attractive waitresses rapidly fixed each meal or drink.
And how about the sheer variety of drinks: all manner of wine, microbrewed beer, and Italian ices, fifteen flavors of the latter. I ordered a passion fruit Italian ice.
What this place has is atmosphere and heart. The lighting is warm and bright, and it's not hard to tell from the tasteful decor that it is owned by a woman. That woman is Destiny, and she spent a couple minutes after my meal telling me about the history of the place.
"We've been in business since Valentine's Day," said Destiny. "Most people will remember this spot along East Washington Street as "Clingman's Grocery."
I mentioned that I saw that name still on the window, as well as a photograph of a smiling older woman, framed and hanging above the kitchen door.
"Yes, that's her, Mrs. Clingman!" Destiny said. "She was an institution in this town for fifty years and had a combination grocery store and restaurant right here."
What a nice touch! Someone actually paying tribute to somebody else for once.
"So how's business?" I asked.
And all Destiny did in response was to wave her hand towards the thirty to forty folks of all ages, enjoying their meals in a packed house, not in a boastful way but just to show how happy she was that her idea had taken off so well. Indeed, it seemed to have the kind of atmosphere so many restaurants lack these days, with their cookie-cutter decorations and menus. These patrons seemed to want to soak in the place and not leave too soon.
So what did I have to eat? I was in a hurry, so all I had was an exceptionally tasty, large salad with chicken breast and balsamic vinaigrette dressing, which was literally a flavorful explosion with every bite The greens were fresh and different, without being totally wild as at some more pretentious places. The passion fruit Italian Ice was one of those calculated risks that paid off-- very refreshing and tasty.
Finally, I didn't have any dessert, but among other treats, they had homemade chocolate layer cake and English scones. Something to look forward to the next time.
I think what was nearly magical about this place: in a brief amount of time, you got a pleasant shot of life: ambiance, friendly service, and exceptional food.
Plus, when I asked for another glass of water from my seat at the bar, they didn't come around and pour more water into the glass for me. My waitress brought me a fresh new glass--a little touch of class for me as I made ready to see the play.
Who knew that West Virginia could have as hip a place to have a drink or a meal as anything in Manhattan or D.C.'s Dupont Circle?
Stardust Cafe: Four out of Four Stars 102 E. Washington St., Lewisburg Phone: 304-647-3663
REVIEW by Greg Wingo Dining Out: Chasing the Dream
For years the town of Lewisburg was home of Clingman’s Market. It was a failed grocery, one of many victims of progress in our small rural communities. But its owner, Gwen, was not a quitter and adapted the store into a breakfast and lunch counter. For two or three bucks folks could have a daily meat dish with their choice of five vegetables all made in the grand American boiled tradition. But Clingman’s was more than a place for a cheap meal, it was an unofficial community center for native Lewisburgers.
After many, many years and many community awards, Gwen passed on and left an empty place in the community. The building was bought and sold but the amazing thing was that the plate glass window still remained that reads “Clingman’s Market”. Somehow the various new owners sensed that this legacy could not be simply tossed aside like so many other things in our disposable society.
The building is once again a restaurant but just as Lewisburg has changed so have the needs of its community members. Like much of America, it has traded spaghetti and meatballs for pasta primavera, Budweiser for microbrews, chablis with a little “c” for California Chardonnay, and coffee for cappuccino. This new inhabitant, The Stardust Café, understands their clientele’s needs extremely well and strives to create satisfaction for both their customers and the general community. To quote my boss and student of Buddhism, “It is clear that everything here is chosen with a special mindfulness”. As a marketer I would call it a postmodernist perspective but modern marketing theory and Buddhism share many commonalities.
Truly the eclectic interior has a certain balance to it. The warmth of wood balances with stainless steel coolers and the Apple computer. The stereo system seems to stimulate conversation rather than lull one into an elevatoresque a coma or remind you why you don’t listen to the golden oldies. Whether it is the tableware and glasses or the napkins and flowers, no detail is missed or done haphazardly. And the menu says it all:
“Welcome to the café! We custom-make every sandwich, salad and panini on the menu, using the best ingredients. This takes a little longer but you will taste the freshness and care that goes into your meal”.
And the folks are lined up to get in. They know the real thing when they see and taste it.
My personal favorite is an antipasto plate entitled “Food Art”. It is not only beautiful to behold but easily feeds four as an appetizer. It includes mozzarella and other cheeses, artichoke hearts, several types of olives, avocado, mango, and crostini drizzled with balsamic glaze. While the sandwiches, salads, wraps, and panini cost more than Gwen’s two-dollar meat plates, they are still a bargain for their size and outstanding taste. They represent both the great American deli food tradition and the nuances of Mediterranean cuisine.
But the fun doesn’t end there because in the great European café tradition this more than just a coffee shop, it is also a purveyor of fine beverages. They feature world-class beers and, perhaps more importantly, fine quality micro-brews such as Great Lakes’ Burning River Pale Ale and Edmunds Fitzgerald Porter (on tap), and Rogue’s selections running the gamut from Brutal Bitter to Chocolate Stout. But wine lovers need not worry, the Stardust also features dependable products from Toasted Head and Smoking Loon, the crus of Drouhin, the production of various Rothschild worldwide estates, and noble Barolos. There ain’t a bad drop on the list.
Entrepreneurs have a dream and a vision to satisfy their customers and the market. The ladies of the Stardust have not only chased the dream but have awakened us to it in downtown Lewisburg. Come share their vision – you won’t be disappointed.
Gregg Wingo is business development manager for Lightstone Community Development Corporation and Visiting Instructor at New River Community and Technical College. Both organizations are dedicated to serving the needs of communities in southeastern West Virginia.
Lewisburg, WV (Special to HNN)-- While in Lewisburg this weekend for a great play at the Greenbrier Valley Theater -- the only year-round playhouse in the Mountain State -- I had a little time before the production to grab a quick bite. Lewisburg has so many excellent restaurants and cafes, that at first I was at a loss as to where to go.
Then I saw a well-lit place just across the street and found my way into the Stardust Cafe, a narrow but deep cafe that had both a bar area and about eight to ten tables. Behind the bar was where most of the action was going on, as attractive waitresses rapidly fixed each meal or drink.
And how about the sheer variety of drinks: all manner of wine, microbrewed beer, and Italian ices, fifteen flavors of the latter. I ordered a passion fruit Italian ice.
What this place has is atmosphere and heart. The lighting is warm and bright, and it's not hard to tell from the tasteful decor that it is owned by a woman. That woman is Destiny, and she spent a couple minutes after my meal telling me about the history of the place.
"We've been in business since Valentine's Day," said Destiny. "Most people will remember this spot along East Washington Street as "Clingman's Grocery."
I mentioned that I saw that name still on the window, as well as a photograph of a smiling older woman, framed and hanging above the kitchen door.
"Yes, that's her, Mrs. Clingman!" Destiny said. "She was an institution in this town for fifty years and had a combination grocery store and restaurant right here."
What a nice touch! Someone actually paying tribute to somebody else for once.
"So how's business?" I asked.
And all Destiny did in response was to wave her hand towards the thirty to forty folks of all ages, enjoying their meals in a packed house, not in a boastful way but just to show how happy she was that her idea had taken off so well. Indeed, it seemed to have the kind of atmosphere so many restaurants lack these days, with their cookie-cutter decorations and menus. These patrons seemed to want to soak in the place and not leave too soon.
So what did I have to eat? I was in a hurry, so all I had was an exceptionally tasty, large salad with chicken breast and balsamic vinaigrette dressing, which was literally a flavorful explosion with every bite The greens were fresh and different, without being totally wild as at some more pretentious places. The passion fruit Italian Ice was one of those calculated risks that paid off-- very refreshing and tasty.
Finally, I didn't have any dessert, but among other treats, they had homemade chocolate layer cake and English scones. Something to look forward to the next time.
I think what was nearly magical about this place: in a brief amount of time, you got a pleasant shot of life: ambiance, friendly service, and exceptional food.
Plus, when I asked for another glass of water from my seat at the bar, they didn't come around and pour more water into the glass for me. My waitress brought me a fresh new glass--a little touch of class for me as I made ready to see the play.
Who knew that West Virginia could have as hip a place to have a drink or a meal as anything in Manhattan or D.C.'s Dupont Circle?
Stardust Cafe: Four out of Four Stars 102 E. Washington St., Lewisburg Phone: 304-647-3663
REVIEW by Greg Wingo Dining Out: Chasing the Dream
For years the town of Lewisburg was home of Clingman’s Market. It was a failed grocery, one of many victims of progress in our small rural communities. But its owner, Gwen, was not a quitter and adapted the store into a breakfast and lunch counter. For two or three bucks folks could have a daily meat dish with their choice of five vegetables all made in the grand American boiled tradition. But Clingman’s was more than a place for a cheap meal, it was an unofficial community center for native Lewisburgers.
After many, many years and many community awards, Gwen passed on and left an empty place in the community. The building was bought and sold but the amazing thing was that the plate glass window still remained that reads “Clingman’s Market”. Somehow the various new owners sensed that this legacy could not be simply tossed aside like so many other things in our disposable society.
The building is once again a restaurant but just as Lewisburg has changed so have the needs of its community members. Like much of America, it has traded spaghetti and meatballs for pasta primavera, Budweiser for microbrews, chablis with a little “c” for California Chardonnay, and coffee for cappuccino. This new inhabitant, The Stardust Café, understands their clientele’s needs extremely well and strives to create satisfaction for both their customers and the general community. To quote my boss and student of Buddhism, “It is clear that everything here is chosen with a special mindfulness”. As a marketer I would call it a postmodernist perspective but modern marketing theory and Buddhism share many commonalities.
Truly the eclectic interior has a certain balance to it. The warmth of wood balances with stainless steel coolers and the Apple computer. The stereo system seems to stimulate conversation rather than lull one into an elevatoresque a coma or remind you why you don’t listen to the golden oldies. Whether it is the tableware and glasses or the napkins and flowers, no detail is missed or done haphazardly. And the menu says it all:
“Welcome to the café! We custom-make every sandwich, salad and panini on the menu, using the best ingredients. This takes a little longer but you will taste the freshness and care that goes into your meal”.
And the folks are lined up to get in. They know the real thing when they see and taste it.
My personal favorite is an antipasto plate entitled “Food Art”. It is not only beautiful to behold but easily feeds four as an appetizer. It includes mozzarella and other cheeses, artichoke hearts, several types of olives, avocado, mango, and crostini drizzled with balsamic glaze. While the sandwiches, salads, wraps, and panini cost more than Gwen’s two-dollar meat plates, they are still a bargain for their size and outstanding taste. They represent both the great American deli food tradition and the nuances of Mediterranean cuisine.
But the fun doesn’t end there because in the great European café tradition this more than just a coffee shop, it is also a purveyor of fine beverages. They feature world-class beers and, perhaps more importantly, fine quality micro-brews such as Great Lakes’ Burning River Pale Ale and Edmunds Fitzgerald Porter (on tap), and Rogue’s selections running the gamut from Brutal Bitter to Chocolate Stout. But wine lovers need not worry, the Stardust also features dependable products from Toasted Head and Smoking Loon, the crus of Drouhin, the production of various Rothschild worldwide estates, and noble Barolos. There ain’t a bad drop on the list.
Entrepreneurs have a dream and a vision to satisfy their customers and the market. The ladies of the Stardust have not only chased the dream but have awakened us to it in downtown Lewisburg. Come share their vision – you won’t be disappointed.
Gregg Wingo is business development manager for Lightstone Community Development Corporation and Visiting Instructor at New River Community and Technical College. Both organizations are dedicated to serving the needs of communities in southeastern West Virginia.